The Rise Of Quiet Luxury And Why It Is Here To Stay
Descriptions
When I began working as a fashion journalist, my first few paychecks were dedicated to buying bags, shoes, and clothes. In my young mind, loud logo bags and garments as well as monogrammed buckle belts were my tickets to earning legitimate fashion credentials. It wasn’t until I moved to Paris in 2008 (to take up my MBA in Luxury Goods) that I had to unlearn everything that I thought I knew about luxury.
My favorite professor, Olivier Roux, who had worked for years at Dior before joining the fashion faculty, opened his class with this statement. “In France, luxury has nothing to do with the bright, shiny, new things. Logos and monograms are not luxury. It’s a cashmere sweater from Loro Piana. It’s a vintage Hermes bag, preferably handed down by your mother or grandmother. It’s heirloom jewelry that’s been in your family for generations.”
After that first class with Olivier, I got rid of my graffiti logo Marc Jacobs bag and began hunting for vintage stores around the 16th arrondissement. A Louis Vuitton bag that maxed out my card before leaving Manila, never saw the light of day–at least not when I had Olivier’s class on the schedule.
Chic French Nonchalance and Quiet Luxury
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 17: Emilie Joseph wears sunglasses, golden earrings, a beige trench coat ... [+]
Quiet luxury, as it is now referred to by journalists, editors, and fashion critics, is nothing new. If anything, it’s a style constant that has continuously evolved while louder, more pronounced trends take center stage. In my MBA class, for instance, many of the foreign students showed up to school wearing brand new pieces, freshly plucked from the row of designer shops along George V and Champs Elysee. They carried the season’s “it” bags from Givenchy and Balenciaga—the bigger the logos the better. They paraded their Louis Vuitton in full monogrammed regalia.
In that ocean of designer-clad fashion students were a handful whose outfits I truly looked forward to seeing each day. The French girls all wore Isabel Marant and Vanessa Bruno, mixing them with select logo-free pieces from Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, and Rick Owens. It was a look I immediately associated with ultra chic, French nonchalance. Only now, as I read more editorials about quiet luxury, do I realize that this was an early iteration of the so-called quiet luxury trend.
The Fundamentals Of Stealth Wealth
BROCHU WALKER does Quiet Luxury all year round.
In contrast to similar-looking fashion movements like minimalism and normcore, the idea of expressing stealth wealth style has more to do with mood and attitude than it does aesthetic. Sure, a predominantly neutral color palette is ascribed to and streamlined silhouettes are undeniably characteristic of quiet luxury. Beneath that, however, lies an ongoing, once hushed conversation anchored on functionality, investment dressing, and true connection to a brand.
A wardrobe of quiet luxury items considers the real life needs, inclinations, and movement of the wearer. It’s not uncommon these days to hear about fashion enthusiasts getting dressed for their social media posts. While watching influencers buy a baguette or head out to the weekend market in 5-inch heels and tightly cinched frocks can be entertaining, it’s hardly the ideal in real life. Outside of our TikTok and Instagram feed, the truth is we all want to go to work, run errands, and enjoy the indulgences of weekends in clothes that are well made, fuss-free, polished and refined. And so we look to pieces that exude quiet luxury.
It also breaks my heart to hear people say that they cannot wear the same outfit twice. It’s like saying that inside that massive wardrobe, not one single piece is an investment. Everything is of-the-moment and disposable. Investing on fashion pieces isn’t just about spending copious amounts of hard earned cash for an outfit. Instead, this mindset inspires a more mindful and discerning approach to consuming fashion. When you invest instead of spend, you purchase high ticket clothes and accessories that you can wear all throughout the year, regardless of the season. If we were to be completely technical about the concept, it’s about maximizing cost per wear without sacrificing elegance.
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the Bottega Veneta designed by Thomas Maier ... [+]
A model presents a creation by German designer Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta during the ... [+]
Long time subscribers of elevated wardrobe essentials are loyal to a certain set of brands that echo the same values of craftsmanship, excellence, tradition, and style. During the Thomas Maier years at Bottega Venetta, high levels of craftsmanship punctuated by the brand’s distinct woven leather designs, were the stuff of timeless pared down refinement. The brand enjoyed a quiet (pun intended) yet devout following among the most discerning, which may or may not have shied away from the floods of new fans during Daniel Lee’s tenure. As I write this piece, I wonder if my former bosses during my Paris internship for a luxury travel blog, traded in their finely crafted Roma Bag for a Padded Cassette.
Deconstructed apron top by THE ROW
LORO PIANA Knitted Sweater
Other notable brands that have stayed the course down the less traveled, quiet luxury road include The Row, Khaite, Brunello Cucinelli, Jil Sander, and Loro Piana. Their designs and brand narratives resonate with an elusive club of luxury aficionados who, simply put, are “in the know.” They are fiercely loyal consumers who can distinguish and detect every stitch, fold, pattern, and hue–and they have no qualms about investing $2,450 on a timeless black slip dress devoid of logos or monograms. These discreet disciples of pared down elegance can smell real luxury from a mile away.
Quiet Luxury Brands To Invest In
PARK CITY, UTAH - MARCH 24: Actress Gwyneth Paltrow enters the courtroom for her trial on March 24, ... [+]
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: Sophia Roe wears black sunglasses, a silver necklace, a black velvet ... [+]
More recently, and almost a decade after my first encounter with Olivier, I once again came face to face with the concept of quiet luxury. This time around, it made its presence felt in the news–on celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow, Katie Holmes, and Katy Perry. Hit TV shows like Succession also influenced a new found love for dressing like the wealthy. On social media, personalities like Sophia Roe and Mandy Madden Kelley show us how it’s done, and it has appealed to an audience who believes that “beautiful things don’t ask for attention.”
This refreshing shift from Y2K and Barbiecore has also shed light on both heritage and emerging brands that offer generous servings of understated, new age elegance.
Joseph Duclos Fontelle Bag
Joseph Duclos Diane L20 Bag
Apart from the usual roster of French luxury labels, JOSEPH DUCLOS is a 266-year-old heritage brand that proposes a more subdued approach in expressing the brand’s rich history in royal tannery and exceptional craft. Its current Creative Director, Ramesh Nair, was a womenswear designer for Hermes under Martin Margiela and Jean Paul Gaultier. In 2010 he moved to Moynat where he was the creative director for a decade. Today he brings his design savvy to the Joseph Duclos atelier and pushes the boundaries of artisanal French savoir faire to create timeless leather accessories that can be handed down from one generation to the next.
MAS Garden Tote by Marie Philippe
MAS Quinta bag
Prior to launching her own brand, MAS, Marie Philippe was a designer at The Row and Hermes. She then brought her experience and unique design point of view to the creation of understated luxury bags under her own label, MAS. Her designs are decidedly muted, allowing the beauty of fine materials like walnut and leather to illuminate. Seamless craftsmanship of artisans from Florence result in investment worthy pieces that transcend time and trend.
Artemis Shirt and Vesta Pants by RG KANE
Bettina Jacket by RG KANE
Founded by Robert Kane in 2019, R.G KANE is a womenswear label that “toes the line between timeless and daring designs that ultimately come together to form a fully realized wardrobe.” The ethical fashion brand from Los Angeles infuses hints of luxury into California cool dressing, resulting in pared down pieces like Artemis striped shirt and Bettina jacket.
Fiat Belted Dress by BROCHU WALKER
Ina Wrap Tank by BROCHU WALKER
BROCHU WALKER is a hidden gem in the quiet luxury category. In 2013, the brand was acquired by Karine Dubner. Born and raised in France, she worked in BCBG Max Azria and later brought her own interpretation of quiet luxury to her own brand. Enduring designs from BROCHU WALKER include the Fiat Dres, Ina Wrap Tank, and Riley Sweater. The brand is the perfect union of country club chic and French girl nonchalance.
KZ_K STUDIO Planar Sarong
KZ_K STUDIO Relief Top
KZ_K STUDIO is a contemporary luxury label from New York that utilizes advanced materials and production processes to create garments that are multifunctional. Distinct design sensibilities highlight functionality and convertibility of garments. The Planar Sarong, for instance, can be worn as a wrap skirt or a tunic top. Various necklines may be achieved with the Relief Top made using a light rib knit. The team adds, “Our tenants of modernism extol the use of technologically advanced materials integrated into a purely functional form for maximum efficiency and versatility, minimizing excess, and maximizing utility.” Theirs is a finely polished take on quiet luxury.
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